Poinsettia Transplantation Guide
Migration is a very critical step in the production of poinsettia. Properly transplanting not only helps to obtain high-quality poinsettia, but also allows the finished product of poinsettia to be optimally sized according to the size of the container. August and September are the best times to transplant poinsettia in terms of transplant time.
Clean: A horticultural expert once said: If you spend 5 dollars to buy a plant, you should place it in a place worth $5. Similarly, for poinsettia, the location of the transplant will determine whether the transplant can be successful. The transplant site must be disinfected and the pathogens in the transplanted area should be eliminated so that the transplanted poinsettia will not be plagued by diseases during the initial and subsequent stages of growth. All acreage beds and aisles in greenhouses must be sterilized or treated with chemicals to achieve disease control. When fungal diseases occur, it is a very effective method to treat the ground or soil under the planting bed with pesticides.
Make sure that the prepared soil for transplantation is clean and fresh, and it should be stored in a clean box or bag before. If the matrix is ​​sterilized inconvenient, an artificially mixed matrix can be used. If conditions permit, it is best to use new containers for migration. If recyclable plastic containers are used, be sure to clean them when using them. The plastic container can be treated with a bactericide or oxidizer for a period of 20 to 30 minutes to kill the pathogen.
Age of cuttings: When reproducing with poinsettia cuttings, many growers generally think that the best time to transplant is 21 days after the cutting is grown. However, at this time, although the cuttings had taken root, its roots did not grow solidly in the matrix, and the newly grown larvae did not plunge into the soil.
Transplantation: Poinsettia is grown shallower in containers during transplantation. If the poinsettia is grown too deep in the container, it can easily hinder its growth. However, since many poinsettia are grown in the matrix, they must be covered with soil to cover their roots, but the thickness of the covered soil must not exceed 6 mm. Avoid exposing the substrate to sunlight or air, otherwise the substrate will dry easily. Lightly cover the substrate with soil to reduce the evaporation of moisture.
Illumination: If possible, keep the light level after the transplant the same as before the transplant. If the light is too high after the transplant, the insert will be physiologically stressed.
Humidity: Sprays should be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day just after the transplant, especially in areas with high daytime temperatures. Ensure that the soil is moist after the transplant because the root of the cutting is the first to be combined with it. When the plants are subsequently irrigated, the substrate is kept moist enough. Because the matrix does not absorb much moisture through capillary action, the total soil moisture level does not have much to do with it. So, when many growers mistakenly believe that the substrate is wet enough, it is not. The best way to check if the degree of moisture is appropriate is to dig out a small amount of cuttings and check that their roots are moist. Growers can also judge the degree of wetting based on the weight of the substrate. The extremely dry matrix will postpone the rooting time and destroy the existing root system. Using a sprinkler device within the first week after transplantation will effectively keep the cuttings wet.
Fertilizer: In the first week after the transplant, apply a low concentration of N-P-K fertilizer 1 to 2 times with a concentration between 150ppm and 200ppm.
If the grower can operate as described above, the transplanted seedlings will soon adapt to the new growing area and can produce a large number of roots 7 days after the transplant.![]()
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Clean: A horticultural expert once said: If you spend 5 dollars to buy a plant, you should place it in a place worth $5. Similarly, for poinsettia, the location of the transplant will determine whether the transplant can be successful. The transplant site must be disinfected and the pathogens in the transplanted area should be eliminated so that the transplanted poinsettia will not be plagued by diseases during the initial and subsequent stages of growth. All acreage beds and aisles in greenhouses must be sterilized or treated with chemicals to achieve disease control. When fungal diseases occur, it is a very effective method to treat the ground or soil under the planting bed with pesticides.
Make sure that the prepared soil for transplantation is clean and fresh, and it should be stored in a clean box or bag before. If the matrix is ​​sterilized inconvenient, an artificially mixed matrix can be used. If conditions permit, it is best to use new containers for migration. If recyclable plastic containers are used, be sure to clean them when using them. The plastic container can be treated with a bactericide or oxidizer for a period of 20 to 30 minutes to kill the pathogen.
Age of cuttings: When reproducing with poinsettia cuttings, many growers generally think that the best time to transplant is 21 days after the cutting is grown. However, at this time, although the cuttings had taken root, its roots did not grow solidly in the matrix, and the newly grown larvae did not plunge into the soil.
Transplantation: Poinsettia is grown shallower in containers during transplantation. If the poinsettia is grown too deep in the container, it can easily hinder its growth. However, since many poinsettia are grown in the matrix, they must be covered with soil to cover their roots, but the thickness of the covered soil must not exceed 6 mm. Avoid exposing the substrate to sunlight or air, otherwise the substrate will dry easily. Lightly cover the substrate with soil to reduce the evaporation of moisture.
Illumination: If possible, keep the light level after the transplant the same as before the transplant. If the light is too high after the transplant, the insert will be physiologically stressed.
Humidity: Sprays should be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day just after the transplant, especially in areas with high daytime temperatures. Ensure that the soil is moist after the transplant because the root of the cutting is the first to be combined with it. When the plants are subsequently irrigated, the substrate is kept moist enough. Because the matrix does not absorb much moisture through capillary action, the total soil moisture level does not have much to do with it. So, when many growers mistakenly believe that the substrate is wet enough, it is not. The best way to check if the degree of moisture is appropriate is to dig out a small amount of cuttings and check that their roots are moist. Growers can also judge the degree of wetting based on the weight of the substrate. The extremely dry matrix will postpone the rooting time and destroy the existing root system. Using a sprinkler device within the first week after transplantation will effectively keep the cuttings wet.
Fertilizer: In the first week after the transplant, apply a low concentration of N-P-K fertilizer 1 to 2 times with a concentration between 150ppm and 200ppm.
If the grower can operate as described above, the transplanted seedlings will soon adapt to the new growing area and can produce a large number of roots 7 days after the transplant.
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