It is customary to build a chestnut garden in low hills and hills, and it is customary to plant it in spring and autumn. However, it is not easy for the spring planting to survive due to drought, and it is difficult for the autumn crops to overwinter as a result of frost damage. The drought year is even more serious. My field began in 1992. In the three years, more than 6,000 trees were planted in the rainy season, and achieved very good results. The survival rate of saplings reached 89% in winter, 31% higher than that in spring, 46% higher than in autumn, and grafted in the spring of the following year. 1. Make good timing. In the middle and early July, according to the weather information, the opportunity for continuous raining was grasped and the seedlings and plantings were raised immediately after the rain fell. 2. Lifting. Seedlings are seedlings that are half a year and a half to two and a half years old. When raising the seedlings, try to maintain the integrity of the root system and reduce the incidence of lateral roots and fine roots. It is best to transplant with soil. The transportation should be quick, take seedlings nearby and plant them in time. 3. Prepare before planting. Pruning the root pruning, cutting off the diseased branches of the chestnut seedlings, failing to reach the semi-lignified shoots, pushing down the stem height, removing the stunted leaves, and leaving 2/3 of the leaves left after pruning. For a root that has been wounded too much and a long rooted one, cut it out and cut it flat. In order to prevent the fungal spores of chestnut blight disease from being infected by clipping, the tree shearing and cutting must be simulta- neously disinfected. A 40% Formamide arsenic wettable powder and 500 times water can be used to form a turbid liquid. Speeding up the roots with 200ppm abt3 rooting powder solution can prompt the root system to heal and grow as soon as possible. The saplings grow robustly. The survey shows that the survival rate can be increased by 15%. 4. Post-plant management. 5-12 days after colonization, 40% of the old leaves lost water, the leaf buds began to germinate and grew into new shoots, and then grew gently. During this period, choose a good day and apply nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers to the foliage. The preparation method is: 100 grams of urea, 21.6 grams of potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and 10 kilograms of water. Surveys have shown that foliar fertilization can significantly reduce old leaf shedding and promote axillary bud germination and growth. The leaf-feeding pests that appear on the saplings after they are planted, such as the caterpillars of the sky, venomous moths, etc., must be promptly sprayed and poisoned. Before the soil is frozen in the early winter, the soil is poured into the soil and poured with antifreeze water to increase the survival rate of the young trees.
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